Ethiopia - 2003 - Merkato

Wednesday, 16 April 2003

We had a little hangover this morning as the party continued on the pub “The Mask” including some tequilas, beer and lots of atmosphere.

The program today was to visit the biggest open market in Africa called “Merkato”. The market is located just outside Addis Ababa and attends over 2 million people daily, probably twice as much on Saturdays. We had arranged a trip with some other Danes and a local student who work as our guide. The latter turned out to be a very good investment.

I really can count how many times we were warned against pick pocketing before going; I guess everybody are aware as Addis Ababa usual is very safe. We didn’t experience any incident though.

Our guide would walk us through the garment market, the straw plaiting and pottery market, the spice market, the recycle center and the antique market. According to him we would then have been through 5% of the most interesting part of the market.

What a total chaos. People and mules both well loaded walked in between the omnipresent traffic. In the alleys women were sitting on the path selling their potatoes, ginger and pepper so we had to zigzag to pass them. When the local police passed by, the women cleared out at an incredible speed. Those who didn’t hide in time had their goods destroyed by the police, probably to protect the organized salesmen in the rented stalks.

The market was overwhelming and we found it hard to believe that it could be more crowded. It certainly could be, out guide told us. Today was nothing; in Saturdays we wouldn’t be able to walk a meter. He was always a step ahead and spoke “Amharic” with the locals constantly, explaining about us, quieten the most persistent salesmen and with that gave us the opportunity to take a lot of nice photos without people hiding themselves or demanding money.

Our throat tickles as we passed heaps of spices ranging from cinnamon, paprika, pepper and cardamom. Those of us who dared to taste reached quickly for a bottle for water as the spices were really hot.

Later we examined how brooms and baskets were made of straw and continued into the recycle center where scrap was turned into oil lamps and fireplaces, and oil drums were hammered back in shape, cleaned and ready for re-sale. Bottles, plastic and cardboard was sorted, fixed, cleaned and sold again.

It was nice to examine that the recycle idea is implemented here and also that some people possess the entrepreneur spirit that is required to build a wealthy society.

Back in Addis Ababa we spend most of the afternoon buying airline tickets to Malin as she would like to visit Labibela with us. We decided to relax for the rest of the day to be refreshed for the coming 6-day hike.

We also passed by the UN office where Jørgen gave us the opportunity to send emails and phone the family as we probably would be out of phone and internet connections next coming week.