Mexico - 2003 - San Christóbal & Palenque

Friday 11 July 2003

The main objective for this day was to rise early and go by bus to Palenque. We did consider the tours to “Lago Miramar” and “Ranch Esmeralda” as our guidebook recommended these places as particular good, but we found that 4 days and USD 350 each was too high a cost. Instead, we decided to go for some tours near Palenque.

Before leaving, we had to withdraw more money and we found a bank that accepted MasterCard, if we brought our passport and a copy to follow, as their photocopier was out of order. Usually we have copies of all our papers, but for some reason, we missed copying the passports. We went looking for a copy-store and found one, just to realize that their photocopier also was broken. Third try succeeded and we ran back to the bank and back in line again. After a while waiting, we got our money, but had lost much time.

All this fuss about the copies gave the result that we arrived at the bus station the same time as the bus drove away. The queue was long and it took ½ hour to get the tickets; hence, we probably would have been late anyway. Next bus departure was at 1:15pm and we expected the drive to be a nice experience and only to last approx. 4 hours. Our expectations turned out to be wrong.

The 190 km drive was one long decline with lots of hairpin bends and road humps and only 40 km/h. It was like being in a slow roller coaster and Ane started to get sick.

Halfway the bus stopped at the city Ocosingo for a 20-minute break in the 30 degree Celsius heat. Here we had the opportunity to buy food and use the primitive toilet to save capacity of the bus toilet. The tiny village consists only of a few houses and gravel roads, but nevertheless this was the scene of the bloodiest battles in the Zapatista uprising in 1994 and more than 50 partisans were shot by Mexican troops.

We continued and expected to reach more flat and straight roads, but were wrong again. The rollercoaster ride continued downwards, to the right, the left, with stop for road humps and on and on. Ane became more and more pale and at last, she had to surrender. She threw up and asked crying the bus driver to stop so she could wash her hands. The bus driver was anxious over pulling in on the narrow road and Ane had a horrible time until a lay-by appeared and she was able to get out and wash her face, hands, shoes and blouse.

From here, the bus drive was a unpleasant mixture of vomit on the floor, other passengers sympathy and the realization that the trip more likely would be five instead of the estimated four hours.

All the passengers were tired and eagerly of getting off the bus and into the city of Palenque to enjoy their holiday and to forget bus drives in the mountains.

Palenque city is a tiny little city that primarily serves tourists who visits the famous ruins, which sets it stamps. The restaurants were under average in quality: french-fries, nachos and guacamole. The only difference between a bi-steak and a filet was the price…